it’s all about choices
New is all you. Your tastes. Your Style.
Used is always a compromise... and always a question.
When you buy a brand new home, you’re buying
YOUR American Dream, not someone else’s.
Buy a brand new home. The Better Choice.
Buying a used house seems like it will save the construction time of building a new home (usually 4 months to build). You might want to consider that some or all of the items listed in this article may happen to a used house. Thus “The Money Pit”, plus the hassle of repairing these items while you are living with the problems can be very dissevering to your family life, therefore not really saving you any quality time.
Just before used houses are listed for sale, cosmetic repairs may have been completed, disguising the damage that the repaired items may have caused.
Well, Tom and Linda bought the Money Pit. No fooling. I’ve been up to my hips in floorboards, joists, nails, and bankers -- not to mention lawyers. When the carpenter came to start renovations on the dining room and bathroom floors, he found a major -- but obvious -- drainage problem that had eluded four different inspectors. It allowed water to run into the wall causing all the sill plates to rot -- most floor joists at the sill were rotted out as well.
The carpenter claims he can make the needed repairs in “two-weeks” but his help keeps taking time off to go hunting -- or they simply quit because their ego’s personal space kept invading the boss’s ego’s personal space. I’m paying the carpenter $25/hr/man… and he keeps going and going and going…I think our bank is getting suspicious because we drop in every other day and withdraw $2,500 in cash -- and we just moved here from Miami. We’ve called in an experienced excavating company that will jack up the front of the house and replace the sill and floor joists. Total cost for labor (alone) is $11,000 (materials are $1,750). And it will take another $5,000 to finish the back part of the house. And that doesn’t include the cost of the original job to re-do the floors…and we’ve already paid $5,000. And the two construction boss’s aren’t getting along -- our original carpenter is a very experienced, home builder, but he has “jack” envy -- the excavating contractor has really big jacks to put the house on. The restorer is itching to do the job, but Linda told him his jacks are too small. Now I have to deal with PEOPLE too!
Everyone asks: “didn’t you have it inspected by a certified home inspector?” Well duh. Yes! Two different home inspection companies as well as two termite inspectors! In particular, we paid Apple Valley Home Inspections a reasonable sum to tell us all that could possibly be wrong with the house. The inspector (Mr. Haney) gave us some things to worry about. But apparently the American Home Inspection Association (motto: “Show me the money!”) recommends that an inspector not say too many negative things about a house. As reported on Dateline a few months back, these home inspection companies “work” for real estate agents, even though the buyer pays their fee. Nevertheless, inspectors who are known as “deal breakers” because they point out real problems, stop getting work. Our inspector phrased things in such a way that nothing sounded too bad or urgent. This is just short of fraud, in our opinion. We tried to sue but the only lawyer in town (Mr. Haney) willing to litigate real estate cases is…the building inspector’s lawyer (Mr. Haney -- it is a small town). And besides, the inspector has no insurance (just his lawyer) and he claims he has no liability and has no obligation to tell us anything remotely useful about a house he’s inspected -- especially if it would make him liable for negligence. The inspector was fully qualified to make such a judgment - he is the former building inspector for Gardiner, MI. We could have been the Poster Family for the segment of Dateline…
I faxed an SOS to the mortgage company last Wednesday - they wouldn’t return my calls or pages…I told them that the house “THEY” bought was falling down and that I couldn’t afford to fix “THEIR” house unless they gave me more money…I got a call back from the Loan Arranger almost immediately…She told me they would get back to me with a decision about a Home Equity Loan within 24 hours…it’s now been 5 days…but they said tomorrow morning “fer shure”. TO BE CONTINUED!!
One of the most important problems is water intrusion. Gutters and downspouts
that were not working properly, their function is to collect all the water that collects on the roof from rain or snow and move it a safe distance from the house. Runoff from an average roof can be hundreds of gallons in a short period of time. If this water is allowed to run behind, or over the gutters, it will eventually penetrate the interior walls. If that saturation lasts for 48 hours, mold will likely begin to grow.
Drying inside walls can require tearing out the walls.
Foundation Clearance to Grade
Note the nice stone planter at the front of the house? The weep wicks are located 3” below the planter’s soil level. Water can enter the house through the weep wicks. The result?
Once the water is off the roof it can cause severe problems if not directed away from the house. If the water flows to the foundation, penetration will eventually happen. Water flows through concrete dissolving salts. In its journey it rusts the rebar inside the concrete that keeps it from crumbling. You need to check the landscaping. After the water leaves the downspouts, notice if it drains back toward the foundation.
There may have been re-grading so water runs away from the foundation all the way around the house, to cover up this old defect.
It is common to find exterior walls and foundations damaged by sprinklers. Water stains the siding. It cascaded over a picture window frame and on down to the ground. The carpet can be water damaged. The window frame and siding may be rotted. This condition can be created by several years of watering the lawn with an oscillating sprinkler that sweeps against the house with every cycle. Sprinkler heads that spray too close to the house.
(Water stains may have been removed so as to not bring attention to this defect) Or leaking hose bibs that drip thousands of gallons of water next to the foundation. The damage that can be caused by just a small drip of water can be great.
(Repairing the valve can cover up this possible damage)
Attic Ventilation
Ice damming is a very common problem. Snow melts from the warmth of the sun. The water runs down to lower parts of the roof where its colder. The water freezes at the edge of the roof. Icicles may form. The ice is slowly melted and drawn under the shingles where it can wick its way to the house. In many cases, the problem is caused by ventilation or insulation problems in the attic.
(If inspecting is done when there is no snow there is no ice)
Inside water problems can be hidden. Plumbing leaks in walls, or roof runoff that finds its way into the interior of walls
can be tricky to find and unseen (for now).

Heating and cooling systems should be one of the top concerns. Neglect, or deferred maintenance, is so common with these systems that
concerns are well founded. Many homeowners are unaware that the furnace and AC need to be cleaned and serviced periodically. The results are HVAC units that
wear out many years too soon, using far too much fuel and possibly endangering the occupants. An HVAC unit will cost more than twice as much in repairs and fuel consumption over 10 years
if it has not been properly maintained. One thirty second of an inch of dust accumulated on the blades of a fan, used in furnaces, will cut down airflow by 30%. Evaporative coils on an AC unit that has been totally blocked with leaves, grass clipping, dirt and/or excess heat from lack of airflow the condenser will fail.
(Cleaning before selling covers up this wear.) If there has been a clogged filter, or dirt and debris has restricted the airflow enough the gas stays liquid and damages the compressor.
(Thus shortening the air conditioner’s life.) Forced air-heating systems rely on unrestricted air movement. If air has been restricted, overheating,
inefficiency and damage will occur. The longer airflow has been restricted the more damage. Compressors, motors and heat exchangers are all at risk.
(Causing a much shorter life)
Homeowners are responsible for maintaining the septic system. If there has been proper septic system maintenance it will help keep the system from failing. (It is very hard to detect a nearly failed system.) Failing septic systems can contaminate the ground water that you or your neighbors drink and can pollute nearby rivers, and lakes.
Simple steps you can take to keep the septic system working properly. Have these items been done in the past?
- Locate the septic tank and drain field.
- Pump the septic tank as needed (generally every three years).
- Don’t dispose of household hazardous wastes in sinks or toilets.
- Keep items, such as dental floss, feminine hygiene products, condoms, diapers, and cat litter out of the system.
- Use water efficiently.
- Plant only grass over and near the septic system. Roots from nearby trees or shrubs might clog and damage the system. Also, do not apply manure or fertilizers over the drain field.
- Keep vehicles off the septic system. The weight can damage the pipes and tank, and the system may not drain properly under compacted soil.
Improper Maintenance - Owner Repair: The old tried and true diaper repair for a leaky drain trap.
Average indoor water use in the typical single-family home is almost 70 gallons per person per day.
Past dripping faucets can waste about 2,000 gallons of water each year.
Past leaky toilets can waste as much as 200 gallons each day. The more water a household conserves, the less water enters the septic system.
(The more water that has gone into the system, the less life there is left.)
Wear and tear on a roof may be apparent if the wear is very advanced but a roof that is starting to age is a
subtler defect. Resurfacing a roof costs thousands of dollars, and will cost much more if the existing roofing surface needs to be removed prior to re-roofing.
Clothes dryer vented to attic. Roof rotted and need to be replaced.
The sidewalk surface must be even and free from any trip hazard to prevent personal injury due to deferred maintenance or lifted tree roots. Similarly, the drive way should be sloped away from garage or have adequate drainage system.
(If it is not raining can I see the problem.)
The most problematic defect you don’t want to find after you buy a used house, it’s a basement that floods. Telltale signs, look for water proofing systems, sump pumps, etc. in the basement; these systems can help to reduce the risk of water flooding in the basement
but may not be able to eliminate water intrusion under all conditions. If a house needs waterproofing measures that are only seen after you have purchased, the cost can run into thousands of dollars.
Support pier gets in the way? Just “modify” it.
Deflections of main wooden beams and cracks along exterior walls, and interior wall framing
(The beams may have been jacked and cracks filled before offering for sale.) may indicate a serious structural problem that may be the result of poor structural design, improper structural alteration, replacing damaged structural components, or underpinning a defective foundation wall is a major expense.
Determine the size of the service AMPS, to determine if it meets current standards.
(Older houses were not designed for today’s many appliances.) Electrical outlets with open ground and wiring reversal conditions can cause havoc with many of your plug in items. Today the electrical outlets throughout the house must be three prong grounded outlets, any outlets within six feet of water source such as bathrooms, kitchen counters and laundry facilities must be Ground
Electrical Panels - Owner Repairs: Owner attempt to fix their own electrical system.
Fault Interrupter Circuits (GFIC), be aware of homes wired in the mid 60’s to mid 70’s may have aluminum wiring that could a potential fire safety hazard. If the home is very old extensive wiring replacement will be needed and that can be proof to be very costly.
The type of pipe that supplies water to the house from the municipal main in the street. Old lead and galvanized steel water supply pipes
(can’t be seen), replacement costs thousands of dollars. The piping distribution in the house, type of material, condition and deterioration, incompatible piping materials. Piping corrodes from the inside out
(can’t be seen). Replacing the piping network in the walls and ceilings is a major expense that can cost thousands of dollars.
Improper Maintenance – Bad Plumbing: Why did this owner put a water faucet on his sewer drain pipe? One has to wonder.
Be aware of homes where deferred maintenance is clearly evident; if a home has been poorly maintained and there are obvious problems, proceed with extreme caution; this could be your worst nightmare. Be careful of homes where there is obvious plumbing and electrical work, as well as structural additions and renovations, that were not professionally installed and were most likely installed by DO IT YOURSELF homeowner; correcting these defects can cost thousands of dollars.
The placement of the crawlspace vent was changed in the plans. The main support beam is resting on one little piece of 2 x 4.
A great appeal of older houses is often the landscape. Huge, old trees sometimes canopy the yard and house. These trees are often magnificent, beautiful and